This page is dedicated to build logs of F5 and F3 RES model aircraft
We are always in search of new logs to help out other potential builders.
To submit a build please email to:

20210821 154057This log is of my second Magic 2 build, the model is developed and produced by Salahi Tezel, I built this one at the 'all round' weight. I find the design of the kit is very well thought out and well-engineered, but the one thing it lacks is a set of instructions. Instead, you have to go to the Magic 2 Facebook page, where some photographs and building tips can be found. I hope this build log, in conjunction with the FB page, will help others in the future. As always, some things can be done in different ways so what I do is not necessarily the best way! The wooden parts, being laser cut, are extremely accurate, some of which are delicate and require care when removing from the sprue. In much of the build I use thin cyano but also used PVA for wooden parts that needed laminating together, and 2 part epoxy on the wing bolt tubes and nuts mounting plates. The kit contains a hardware pack, and a polythene sheet to cover the plan. The full-size plan is very good, I cut the plan into sections, so each section could be built individual on my bench. I do not use the supplied pushrods for the rudder and elevator but instead, use pull string/spring. I am aware that some will have never used this system before, it is cheap and easy to do and I will explain that section in detail.
Here we go:

Jump to:-
Centre Wing Panel
Outer Wings
Horizontal Stab
Fin & Rudder
Final jobs  ( wrapping spar ends, wing Incidence pegs, Spoiler springs )
Pull Strings


20210821 154040

 A piece of sandpaper bonded to plywood is provided.

20210821 154318

 Hardware pack.

20210821 154328

 Polythene sheet to cover plan and a nice decal.

20210821 154336

 Boom, carbon spars, carbon leading edges and push rod tubes.

20210821 155047


Spars when offered up to plan are too long and need to be cut down. I wrap masking tape before cutting on a band saw, I find this not only helps mark where to cut but also prevents carbon from splitting.

20210821 161221

 The carbon joiners and adaptors need sanding to fit properly. I find it best to do all this before building so that you don't get carbon dust all over the nice balsa wood. Tip - For anyone not used to working with carbon, the dust is hazardous to breathe in, so recommend wearing a mask and hoovering up dust (don't blow!). The blue masking tape is holding down the polythene sheet over the plan.

20210821 162612

Taking parts out of the sprue. There are small places where the cutting is paused, a careful flexing of the sheet generally allows the part to pop out, If any are a bit difficult then I cut with a scalpel.

20210827 104523

Note that these plywood parts are numbered. They may all look very much the same, but they are not, so need to make sure that when assembled the placement of the numbered parts match the plan.

20210917 131945

Slide all ribs onto the carbon spar and layover plan. I use 10 mm sq key steel as weights. I then used thin cyano to glue all ribs BUT NOT THE END ONES YET to spar (one drop of thin cyano on each joint is plenty.

20210917 132040

  The centre ribs were laminated together by painting surfaces with PVA before glueing to spar.20210917 132104

 These are needed later on and go underneath the ends of the spoiler frames. The outer ones will need sanding a bit thinner to fit between end braces and spoiler frames.

20210917 134503

 I set the end ribs at 5-degree angles using a 3d-printed jig. It doesn't have to be exact, and a cardboard or balsa jig could also be used. I then use thin cyano to glue end ribs and ply braces in place.

20210917 140613


 All weighted down and glued.

 20210917 141010

Trailing edges were pre-assembled (Sorry forgot to take a photo!) but essentially lay them flat upside down and cyano all the gussets in place. By doing it this way, it ensures the top surface is completely flat. Then offer up to ribs, making sure everything fits well and then apply cyano. Spoiler frames can also now go in place and cyano.

20210917 144746

 Carbon leading edge next. Note there is a gap in front of the centre ribs. I hold in place and add one drop of cyano on each contact point with the rib, starting in the middle and working out. I then with a razor saw cut the leading edge overhang flush with the outer rib.

20210917 144843

 There's a balsa plate that goes in between ribs to support the pull string tube for the spoiler. I cyano plate in, sand flush and then cyano tube in place. I then cut the tube flush to the surface with a razor saw.

20210917 155516

 Finished job

20210917 155714

 There are 2 balsa pieces to fill the gap. Position so that when the top and bottom sheeting is added it can all be sanded flush and the cyano in place.

20210917 155739

 Prepare bolts and aluminium tubes. In my case, a needle file was needed to de-bur where the tubes had been factory cut.

20210917 160730

 This next step needs care to get accurate. Offer up the top ply plates and mark out to drill holes in centre ribs for the tubes. Note that it's only the bolts that go through the ply plates, and they should not be opened up for the tubes. I found it best to drill holes very slightly oversize, so I could adjust to get perfectly in place. It's essential to line everything up over the plan. I use some 15 minutes setting 2 part epoxy to glue tubes in, which gives enough working time.

20210917 164136

 Front tube length is the depth of the ribs, so I assembled with nut and bolt and then lined up over plan

20210917 164151

 The rear tube is longer, so the bolt is just sitting in there to make sure everything stays in line.

20210917 164234

Leave now for the epoxy to be fully set.

20210917 165601

 Front tube in place.

20210917 203751

 And rear tube. Note the step-up in the base of the rib.

20210917 203828

 The rear tube now has to be cut flush to the higher step.

20210918 083425

 Top sheeting can now go on, cyano from inside and then run the drill through tube and sheeting.

20210918 090736

Top sheeting in place.

20210918 090756

 Spoiler pull string tubes need to go in place and bottom sacrificial feet on ribs removed to allow bottom sheeting to go in place.

20210918 091356

 Before bottom sheeting can go on, sacrificial feet on ribs have to be removed and sanded flush.

20210918 110300

 File some slots in sheeting for tubes and I coated centre rib with PVA as there is no access when in place. Can use cyano on the edge of sheeting to the outer ribs.

20210919 084004

 In place and I made a mistake! At the rear of the sheeting on the edge ribs, I sanded too low after the removal of the foot. The picture shows some extra pieces glued back on, ready to sand down properly.

20210919 085504

Front pull string tubes will be too long on my set-up and will not allow enough room between linkage and servo arm, so I cut back to around 22 mm.

20210919 090149

 My mistake is fixed.

20210919 091225

 I'm happy now!

20210919 091521

 I decided to use magnets on the spoilers to keep securely closed but after some trial and error realized that a magnet directly to a metal strip was too strong a strength, so I spaced out with a piece of 1.5 mm balsa scrap from the sprue. One of the metal strips from the hardware pack is cut in two and then used cyano to glue to balsa pieces.

20210919 093815

To get an accurate hole for the magnet, I made a 3d-printed jig and used a 3d-printed router attachment for the Dremel.

20210919 094018

 Spoiler placed in the jig.

20210919 094041

 Hole for magnet routed.

20210919 094705

 Remove from the jig and perfect hole.

20210919 095503

 Push magnet in place and a drop of thin cyano to secure.

20210919 095523

 Glue in the spaced metal strip under the spoiler frame.

20210919 100546

 Job done.

20210919 100816



Intermediate panel - Make up trailing edge, the same method as before, offer spar up to plan, mark out and cut to length, and then dry-fit ribs on to spar. Weigh down and glue, BUT NOT END RIBS YET.

20210919 113700

 Slide the larger carbon angled joiner into the spar and then slide into the spar of the centre panel, it fits because I sanded earlier. Clamp end ribs together (remember setting centre wing end rib to 5 degrees). Carefully, then glue the end rib in place, making sure that the two ribs are not bonded together. I chose to tack with thicker cyano and glue properly after removing, but another method is to jig up the 2 ribs with some scrap pieces of balsa in between to keep them apart before glueing.

20210919 135350

 Outer panels - Connect the outer spars, no need to cut anything, just slide in and out to get the correct length. I chose to overhang the tip rib by about 5 mm to help locate the tip later on.

20210919 140110

 Remove the 6 tip pieces from the sprue, 3 to make up each tip.

20210920 090749

 Note the way the grain of the wood goes. Layer up with W2 in between W1 and W3. I painted PVA on the surfaces.

20210920 091139

 Weigh down whilst glue sets.

20210920 091817

 Makeup trailing edge as before.

20210920 094123

 Slide ribs onto spars and fit trailing edge and cyano everything other than as before the end ribs. Then slide the smaller angled wing joiner into spar ends and cyano up, this time the ribs are glued together. Glue on the leading edge for intermediate panel and trim end.

20210921 115434

 For the tip rib, I cyano only leading and trailing edges and not to the carbon spar yet. This is to make sure that it is completely flat to bond to the balsa tip. I drill a small hole in the tip to locate the spar.

20210921 115440

 These doublers can go in place.

20210923 075956

When glueing the leading edge of the tip panel, starting at the root and working out. I then trim flush with a razor saw.

20210923 160947


20210923 160954


20210923 161043


20210923 161048


20210923 161050

 Tips can be bonded on now. Make sure they are correctly orientated.

20210923 161327

 I dapple with PVA,

20210923 161401

Then paint with a slightly wet paintbrush.

20210923 161424

 Set up to tip rib and make sure it is aligned with trailing edge and cyano tack in place. I now cyano tip rib to spar.

20210923 162031

 All done and left to cure. Then there needs to be some sanding.

20210923 162059

Top sanded to profile.

20211024 094321

Underside needs some camber blended in to match tip rib.

20211024 094336


To help keep its shape, It is best to build with the frame still in sprue. Note that the elevator is still partially connected to the stab. Leave connected until everything is built and sanded.


20210924 162512

I cut the sprue sheet where the line is marked.

20210924 162524

The 3x1 flat carbon spar is offered up and marked, so it can be cut to length.

20210924 163730

This ply piece has a routed slot on one side. It is important to orientate so that this is built to be the underside.

20210924 165147

And this is the top.

20210924 165154

I slot the spar in place and build all the pieces in the frame with the number markings on the top. So the ply piece with the slot has a slot to the board and flat face up. The reason why this might be important is because of which side of the boom, the elevator horn ends up.

20210924 165736

Weights on so it's all flat and cyano.

20210924 170624

Sometimes some cyano leaks to polythene, a scraper helps pop it off.

20210924 171605

Removed frame from sprue ready to sand.

20210924 171830

 I sand a rounded leading edge and whilst the elevator is still connected I sand both sides so the trailing edge is down to about 1.5mm. I know some like to sand down to a knife-edge but to me, I think there is little if any benefit in performance gain, but more reward in strength.

20210924 171843

The elevator is then cut from stab and I sand a leading-edge bevel ready for a taped top hinge.

20211014 162930


Like the horizontal stab, best to build with the frame in sprue. Starting with fin, dry fit all the balsa pieces.

20210925 071416

 Weights on and glue.

20210925 071455

 Remove from the sprue and prepare carbon pegs and tubes. The pegs may require a little sanding, they want to be a firm fit but can still pull apart.

20210925 075345

 When happy glue the tubes in place.

20210925 075657

 Cut off overhang with a razor saw.

20210925 075836

 Finished ready for sanding.

20210925 080234

 Rudder built the same way with frame in sprue. Pieces dry fitted and then cyano in place.

20210925 080945

 Remove from the sprue and all done.

20210925 081450

Like the elevator, I sand the trailing edge down to about 1.5mm and bevel the leading edge for a taped side hinge on the right.

20211014 162822



 There are quite a few bits so best to sort them out and understand what goes where.

20210927 100603

I did a few sub-assemblies. I laminated the plywood tow hook doublers together using PVA and spread about with a wet paintbrush.

20210925 084431

 Weighted down on to fuselage base with piano wire pins keeping it in line. The wider end of doublers faces the nose.

20210925 084653

 This part is a jig and does not need to be cut out. It is used later on in the boom assembly.

20210925 091206

 It is best to make sure these parts slide over the boom before they are assembled.

20210926 082200

To accommodate my chosen servos I had to open the holes in the servo tray very slightly. Again, any adjustments are best done now before assembly.

20210927 095034

 Thin cyano to glue the nuts in place. The thickness of the smaller nut is not as much as the ply plate so it makes sense to have one edge flush. When glueing to the doubler plate have the flush face towards the doubler. I also pop the magnet into the plate shown and secure it with thin cyano.

20210927 095844

 I use 2 part epoxy to glue these together using the bolts and clamps whilst the glue sets.

20210927 153408

 The balsa pieces can go into the base and be glued with thin cyano.

20210927 101212

 A dry fit to make sure I'm happy with where all the parts go.

20210927 155607

 Top longerons go in place on the fuselage sides, they overhang the front and that's fine, don't cut. Also, don't glue the formers yet, they are in place dry to get the position of the longeron correct. I know it's obvious but make sure there's a left and a right side!

20210930 085427

 Bottom longerons have to be cut where shown so they can go either side of the former, they can then be glued in place. Again formers are only fitted dry to get positions correct.

20210930 085820

 Can now assemble bottom, sides, formers, and trays. I held each section together by hand went round the joints with thin cyano.

20210930 093511

 A top view with everything glued.

20210930 093517

 The longerons overhanging the front former were now cut back flush with a razor saw and finished with a light sanding.

20210930 093529

Job done.

20210930 093721

 I now glued in the wing seat doublers with PVA. The wing nut assembly has to be put in place but leave to float around in the slots, do not glue!

20210930 094307

 Wing seat doublers In place.

20210930 094933

This piece gets glued in place flush with the top but I tack and leave sticking up a bit. I forgot to mention the nose pieces were laminated together with PVA and then glued to the front former.

20211001 092718

Top sheeting now gets glued to the inner piece and pushed down flush for final glueing.

20211001 092739

 I glue the piece with a magnet in and assemble the canopy (sorry don't have a photo but it should be obvious.

20211002 140720

 Can bolt the wing in place now and work on the ply fairing.

20211002 141731

 The fairing is sanded so that it's a neat fit over the wing leading edge. Can then be glued in place sitting flush to the rear edge of the canopy.

20211002 143227

 I sanded the nose to profile.

20211004 161927

 And I keep the balsa dust. Mixed with PVA it makes a very good gap filler.

20211004 161934

 I now tack glue the wing mounting plates with PVA.

20211005 081825

 Bolt-on wing and leave to cure. Once the PVA is set the wing can be removed and I finish glueing the plates with thin cyano and then apply small fillets around the edges of  2 part epoxy.

20211005 082205

 20211008 094634And then I install the servos.



 Firstly I offered up and cut to length the carbon pegs for the fin.

20211005 143458

 Note that the bottom side of the boom has smaller holes than the top. I didn't open them up but instead sanded a blunt chamfer so the pegs sat in the hole nicely.

20211005 152328

 With fin pushed on put still with a gap runny cyano can be applied to the pegs without fear of bonding fin to the boom.

20211005 152334

 Job done.

20211005 153248

 Next, I prepared the horizontal stab pylon. Don't lose the small carbon rod taped to the ply parts.

20211006 080138

 My parts were not fully cut through so carefully finished with the scalpel from the underside.

20211006 080219

 Put the bolts from the hardware pack through the base of the jig.

20211006 165543

The pylon parts are assembled upside down, noting that the nuts are orientated so the flats are against the sides. I tacked nuts and sides with a thicker cyano. I was worried thin cyano might leak through and bond pylon to the jig.

20211006 165551

 Removed the pylon, installed the small carbon peg and finished the whole assembly with thin cyano.

20211006 165819

 Pylon can now be bolted to the stab to test fit.

20211006 165902


20211006 170016

 I'm happy.

20211006 170022

 Next, I dry fit pylon to boom. Do not glue yet!

20211006 171453

 I used the scrap sprue to clean out factory cut slots.

20211006 172007

I also dry fit the ply plates for the fin.

20211006 172246

 I slide the fin onto pegs but leave a gap to the boom and clamp the ply sides. I then used thin cyano to bond ply sides to boom.

20211006 173127

To set up the pylon I used a plumb line to get fin vertical and a spirit level to get stab horizontal. I find it easier than using set squares.

20211007 155257

 When I'm happy I cyano the pylon to the boom.

20211007 155321

 I remove fin and stab and the work on the slots for linkage tubes. I know from my first build where the best place is. The picture shows where I marked out the slot for the rudder tube.

20211007 160502

 The slot was marked at a slight angle.

20211007 160630

 For the elevator, I marked out the slot just in front of the centre pylon leg. If it was further back it would foul on it.

20211007 161614

 I drill a hole at each end of the slot.

20211007 161619

 And finish with a needle file.

20211007 162054

 The slot has been opened up.

20211007 163125

 Test fit push rod tube.

20211007 163225

 And the slot finished for the rudder pushrod tube.

20211007 164617


20211007 170212

Before glueing in place I chamfered the ends of the tubes and installed the steel pushrods so that tube would have a nice straight line inside the boom.

20211007 170222

 The Elevator tube is done.

20211007 170301

 Rudder tube is done.

20211007 170325


20211007 170405

 The tubes are sticking out of the other end of the boom and will need to be cut to length. I know from my first built where to cut for my installation.

20211008 093730

 My favourite tool for cutting tubes. Some builders would now put the steel pushrods back into the tubes and use rare earth magnets on the outside to hold the tube to the inside edge of the boom whilst dribbling thin cyano down the tubes to bond in place. I did this on my first build but am not doing it on this one, it's not necessary with a spring/pull string system.

20211008 101034

 The boom can now be slid into the 2 rear formers of the fuselage, threading the tubes as shown.

20211008 101753

 Tubes should be glued where the cutouts are in the former.

20211008 101746

 I forgot to take a picture here but with the centre wing bolted to the fuselage and the fin and stab installed on the boom, the boom can be rotated to get stab and wing exactly in line. When happy boom can be bonded to the formers and sides with thin cyano. The top fairing can now go in place.20211014 163031

And the bottom one.

20211014 163044

I left a slight edge on the top fairing so the wing trailing edge will but up against it.

20211014 163058

And then sanded to shape.

20211014 164337

Some would sand further down than me but I prefer to leave some strength. There are some gaps to fill.

20211014 164345

PVA mixed with the dust from sanding balsa makes an excellent filling paste.

20211014 164620

Gap filling complete.

20211014 170118


Wrapping Spar Ends:

 Some kevlar string is supplied on a bobbin in the hardware pack. This is to bind the spar ends to prevent any splitting.

20211022 151324

 Firstly I cut it in half.

20211022 151428

 Then I did some maths to split the 950 mm lengths of strings into sections that would have roughly equal wraps on each diameter of the spar.

20211022 152638

 A fine tip marker pen works well for marking out.

20211022 153158

 I clamp the string and apply small drop of cyano.

20211022 153526

 Then start wrapping and when there is a small amount left I apply thin cyano again.

20211022 154238

 The final bit I hold with pliers and apply cyano.

20211022 154305

 That's one done, seven more to go!

20211022 154403

Wing incidence pegs:

 Then the locating pegs when wings are slotted together.

20211015 093750

 I assemble and use thick cyano to tack. Got to be careful;l not to glue the 2 halves together.

20211015 104451


20211015 104458


20211015 104559

Spoiler springs and string:

Pull string for the spoilers has to be cut in half.

20211022 155237

 Then threaded through the tubes and ribs.

20211022 155525

 That's one thread up.

20211022 155719

 The spoilers use torsion springs to help close them. The photo shows what's supplied in the kit. I tweaked them so legs and bends were equal and did not use the supplied tubes.

20211023 100607

 Instead, I use a small bore heat shrink. I place it on the leg of the spring and shrink it down. I then have an exact size tube. I will use this same technique later on the rudder/elevator pull/spring set-up.

20211023 101416

 Springs adjusted and my new tubes are ready.

20211023 101723

 I clamp the tube in place on the rib and the most angle possible and then cyano in place.

20211023 102133

 I then weight down the other end onto the spoiler and cyano in place. Have to be careful to use small amounts so you don't glue the spoiler to the frame or the spring in the tube.

20211023 102340

 That's how it looks.

20211023 102425

 I remove the spoiler and run a small drop of cyano down the remaining tube so the spring doesn't fall out and be lost.

20211023 105030


Tools of choice. Cover Grip is excellent stuff, I paint on carbon leading-edge, the underside of ribs, the rib ends, and anywhere where there will be a small contact for the film to come apart, such as trailing edges and spoiler frames. I chose to use Oracover on the fuselage and Oralight on all the wing surfaces. The instructions that come with the film are very good and don't need to be repeated here.

20211024 093733

 Fuselage covered.

20211024 110355

  To help open the canopy I use a small piece of tape with the end doubled back on itself to make a tab.

20211027 084440

 Stab ready for hinging.

20211028 163607

 I cut 4X 10mm strips of 25mm tape.

20211028 163743

Fold elevator back on itself and apply tape strips.

20211028 164123

 Tape strips are folded over so both surfaces are stuck together making sure tape is well stuck to the inside hinge line.

20211028 164130


 20211028 164320

 Opened up.

20211028 164337

 And then Put an overlength strip of tape on the top and then trim tape back at the ends.

20211028 164517

 Trim the tape off flush.

20211028 164617

 Finished hinge. I then did the same process to hinge the rudder.

20211028 164822

 Pull Strings:

For the spoiler string, not all the supplied aluminium crimps were the correct length so I also used some 1mm fishing tackle crimps.

20211106 133353


I crimp the spoiler wires onto the servo hook first. I also used a small dap of epoxy so there was no gap in the bent loop part of the hook. This eliminates any risk of the wires sliding out of the loop - It did in my first build!

20211106 143525

 Hook now put on servo arm ready to set the spoiler ends up.

20211111 081427

Spoilers have been top hinged with tape. I then thread string through spoiler horns but do not crimp yet.

20211111 081438

 I then operate the servo and adjust the string so both spoilers open and close identically, I crimp one, check again and then crimp the other and trim off excess wire.

20211111 082127

 Final result.

20211111 082425

 Now for the elevator and rudder springs. I make these out of guitar string.

20211114 081535

 I cut two pieces at 83mm lengths and then bend 10mm legs at the angles shown. This makes two springs at 63mm in length. Note the different orientations of the legs.

20211114 083034

 The spring nearest rudder is the one used.

20211114 091413

 I now make 10mm length tubes out of small-bore heat shrink.

20211114 091726

 I slide the tube on to spring leg and shrink down.

20211114 092313

 Four tubes are ready to install.


20211114 092839

 I drill a hole for the tube in the rudder in the place as shown.

20211114 093428

 I push the tube into the hole, place the spring so I can mark out where to drill the next hole for the fin.

20211114 094140

 And there we are.

20211114 094500

 To glue the tubes in place I pierce a small hole with the guitar wire and drop runny cyano in which will wick into the wood around the tubes.

20211114 094737

 Finally a small [piece of tape to make sure spring does not pop out.

20211114 095131

 I install the elevator spring in this position.

20211114 100500

Note that this hole is drilled through the carbon spar. I'm not worried about weakening it as the tube is glued around it. Using the spring to push the tube in places helps.

20211114 101105

 Spring installed and a small piece of tape to make sure it never pops out.

20211114 101633

 Finished job.

20211114 101901

For the strings, I first make up two key rings from the guitar string wire. This is so I can remove the fin and stab if ever needed.

20211114 103910

 Keyring placed on the elevator horn.

20211114 104534

 Keyting on the rudder horn.

20211114 104821

 I use pike trace wire with crimps for the strings and use some heat shrink to cover the crimps.

20211114 104949

 Thread trace wire from the tail end down the fuselage.

20211114 105208

 Then I make up the crimped joint on the servo horn.

20211114 111709

 Once crimped I will slide the heat shrink over the joint and shrink down to make it neat.

20211114 111920

 With the horn on the servo, I power up with the servo tester and centre the horn.

20211114 112415

 I then set the control surface neutral and crimp the string. I use a steel ruler as a protection from heat when shrinking the heat shrink.

20211114 121146

 Finished job.

20211114 121156

 Still stickers to go on but ready to maiden.

20211114 145231





We use cookies

We use cookies on our website. Some of them are essential for the operation of the site, while others help us to improve this site and the user experience (tracking cookies). You can decide for yourself whether you want to allow cookies or not. Please note that if you reject them, you may not be able to use all the functionalities of the site.